It’s so unusual for me to find a movie that is meant for adults (not that there’s anything wrong with seeing a good children’s movie, but still), not a comedy, and not so scary or evil that it gives me bad dreams. I just don’t do scary and evil. I remember last year, to celebrate my birthday I went to see “The Constant Gardener,” because of my devotion to Ralph Fiennes, but I didn’t do my homework. Silly me, I thought the film might be about… gardening, not that I garden, but at least it would be palatable, and I could stare at Ralph. But my goodness, I was scared for weeks afterward.
So yesterday it was such fun to meet up with my gorgeous friend Dalia (always a bit demoralising to be with a friend who makes everyone’s head turn, but it’s worth it for her biting wit) and see “Notes on a Scandal.” Of course everyone is talking about it. I had not read the book by Zoe Heller, but from the reviews of the…
Clearly I need an editor. I skipped a crucial ingredient (tomatoes) and a crucial step (slicing), which I’ve now added to my recipe for you here. Sorry!
It’s getting closer! Our visit home. We’ve confirmed some more exciting plans: lunch in upstate New York with John’s former assistant (and our permanent friend) Olimpia and her husband Tony. They have just built on an amazing new kitchen to their country place up in the mountains, from which Olimpia promises will issue… her famous meatballs. I cannot wait. And lunch with Alyssa at a new place in Tribeca, the Devin Tavern. Rustic American? That’s what we’re coming home for.
And we’re staying in town at a little cozy-sounding place, The Union Square Inn. It gets hugely disparate reviews, and I hope it’s decent, since it was my idea and John always likes better the sound of a place high in the sky, not low to the ground in the East Village. Anyway we’ll be there only to sleep, so what’s the problem. I don’t think I have ever stayed in a New York hotel in the whole of my life. That’s what happens when you live in a place; you don’t see the hotels. Unless, that is, you live the kind of life where you do things in hotels in the town where you live, and alas… no. Sigh.
And in our uber-organised mode lately, John had the bright idea for me to renew my passport before we try to attach all sorts of legal immigration things to it, so we skidded over the two steps it takes to get to the American Embassy from our flat. Boy is that a weird place. Granted it’s mind-bendingly ugly. I accept that. But I don’t think I’ve ever been that close to a gun before, and they’re all toting them, just like in American gangster films. Only not revolvers, but big long things with lots of handles. The demeanor of the chaps in the security hut is surprisingly jocular, considering their brief, but I guess you get used to anything. I had a little dropper bottle of what John calls “happy juice,” a floral relaxation remedy (I know, I sound like a crackpot) in my bag, and let me tell you, the intense security and heightened state of alert in Grosvenor Square was alive to the possibilities of this potential breach of safety. The little bottle was scrutinized under the x-ray and then I was made to reach perilously into the bag myself (they weren’t taking any risks with their own security, absolutely not), and hand it over, whereupon I was about to be given a claim ticket for it and watch it get installed ceremoniously in a locker. “Don’t be silly, it’s almost empty, you can pitch it,” I said generously, and went in the building.
Afterwards I had a good spy-ish, plot-like thought (this is what comes of taking too many writing courses). What if, upon their finding my little bottle, I had made a fuss? Told them I had to take two droppers-ful every half hour or else drop dead? Or what if, even more sinister, I had given them back the bottle and then said that, on second thoughts, I didn’t need to renew my passport that day, and had left? Would that have been terribly suspicious? John of course suggested that I should have said, “Oh keep it, I can always get more. It’s just Polonium 210.” I wonder if they would sic dogs on me? Life in London can be a little strange these days, especially in my neighborhood.
Anyway, the sweet embassy man behind Window #1 assured me that I should keep this passport as I could get only a year-long one on an emergency basis, fewer than 10 days before traveling, so I can look forward to visiting the embassy again when we return, and in the meantime I can run through some potential dialogue scenarios, smuggling this, smuggling that. I’m accepting scripts, if you’d like to apply.
Well, I can tell you that as a person for whom the sound of children singing is an instant tear-producer, yesterday was quite Over the Top, AND I had no tissue, what was I thinking. Our school had been invited to take part in the third annual fundraising concert at the Royal Academy of Music, an imposing structure in the Marylebone Road, in aid of a charity called The Children’s Trust for Multiple Disabilities. I am sappy enough when it comes to happy news and healthy children, so add the perspective of children who have been through life-threatening disabilities, and I am the original basket case. But it was lovely. And a more deserving charity I cannot imagine.
The scene was this: perhaps a dozen schools from around London had been invited to participate in the concert, for which tickets were sold in aid of the charity. So we dispersed the Ava+Anna sleepover party of the night before; and I do mean night, they were up until all hours, putting on a play in which Avery was the hoity-toity older sister of a Victorian family whose parents had unaccountably disappeared, leaving her in charge. I must say, the costumes were lovely, having been culled from all Avery’s pre-uniform obsession with old-fashioned garments. Those bits, and a couple of formal skirts that have migrated from my closet (worn once, at Glyndebourne, in perhaps ten years) completed the look. Anyway, we packed Avery off to the Royal Academy with her “immaculate winter uniform” as specified by Mrs D and a lunch, and we ourselves turned up in the afternoon for a pre-concert champagne reception featuring excellent gossip with other parents and possibly the worst canapes I have ever come across, but hey, it was for charity. There was chicken on skewers accompanied by a vat of what was clearly mayonnaise for, dare I say it, dipping? And simply awful soggy blinis with not-fresh smoked salmon, need I say more. Maybe I can cater it next year.
Anyway, we trooped upstairs and ended up in the balcony for photography’s sake. Just look at these faces. So bored! And the posture. The boys above our group were just classic. It is hard to imagine, looking at adolescent chaps like these, that our girls will ever find, among them, fodder for romance, but then they’ll be adolescents too, so perhaps it evens out. I can’t see the gorgeous being that was my husband at 18, anywhere in these boys, just a couple of years younger. But I suppose I was drinking the kool-aid. In any case, it was a wonderful, wonderful afternoon. I do find the sight of so many earnest, dressed-up children and their devoted mentors incredibly sentimental. How hard they have worked! The Latin, the French, the pianissimos and vibratos, the girls’ uniforms with knee socks at varying levels of knee-proximity, the boys with any number of cuff lengths to their ever-expanding arms, the slumping poses, but then the ethereal beauty of their voices. Our school did very well, but I have to say that the schools who obviously sacrifice a great deal for their music were a revelation. Fulham Prep, for example, have won all sorts of competitions, and it showed. The professionalism and maturity of their performance was incredible, plus I am a complete sucker for the sound of 20 voices simultaneously pronouncing the English version of “water”. I sat there trying to think how to spell it, and it’s something like “whoa-tuh.” So pure and gorgeous.
And then a teenage boy got up and read what amounted to his life story: a little-boyhood of being the fastest and the best in his class at everything, then a tragic auto accident, and bang: all over. Or so the doctors said, until he reached The Children’s Trust and was taken in hand by every sort of therapist you can imagine, and despite all the terrible predictions, in a year had learnt to walk, talk, feed himself, all over again. He is planning to run the London Marathon next year. Toward the end he could not finish reading, and when he sat down there was a moment of stunned silence and then the room simply erupted in applause, and a standing ovation. John and I are trying to think how we could volunteer for a place like The Children’s Trust, which is located too far out of London to be practical. But I feel sure there must be something like it here in the city, where Avery and I could perhaps read aloud to children, or help in the kitchens, and John could lend a hand with their computer systems. We must find something.
All the parents, milling about after the concert, were overwhelmed. “Sort of puts trouble with homework in perspective, doesn’t it?” Becky mused. “If I ever start complaining about anything, just kick me,” I agreed. Our children finally emerged from the throng, and I have never seen Avery so tired. We spirited her home and into her second bath of the day, which she swam about in for about two hours, coming out only to swallow about two bites of dinner and then lay her head on the table. “Time for bed,” I announced. “But my homework!” she wailed. “You can tell your teachers that your mother made you go to bed, and they can take the matter up with me.” Wrapped in a fuzzy throw with about four hot water bottles and a tabby cat, she was good for a chapter of “All of a Kind Family,” and then was down for the count, at about 7:30! Like having a baby in the house. I had forgotten, until I was looking for a comfort book, how wonderful “All of a Kind Family” is. It was her absolute staple read-aloud as perhaps a kindergartner, and I remember clearly that I had just been anxious about why she wasn’t reading, somewhere around age 5, when I heard her little voice and realized she was reading full paragraphs of that book, to herself. Avery’s way: learn in secret, emerge only when you know how. But get the book (here’s a link for getting them in the UK even, that’s how much I care about your reading list), do, and then get the sequels. A lovely story of five sisters growing up in the Jewish ghetto of the Lower East Side of Manhattan, in the 1920s. It’s all there: sisterly affection of a Jane Austen sort, thrift, Jewish heritage and culture (plus mouth-watering descriptions of the food markets). You’ll love them. Plus it’s good to get back to reading aloud, I think. Just because she can read, doesn’t mean she always has to.
Let’s see, what else is going on? Oh! The Indianapolis Colts won the Super Bowl! My family back home are ecstatic, my parents and brother actually still living there and my sister and her family pretending they weren’t in Connecticut at all, last night during the big triumph. Congratulations, everyone. Good on you, Colts.
Back on this side of the pond, we’re making frantic plans for our half-term trip back to Connecticut, on Friday. There is so much to fit in. Must see Alyssa and her family, Avery’s going to spend a day with Cici at her school (only if she speaks in an English accent ALL DAY, John specifies), must get our immigration papers at the British Consulate, must see my family who are coming to visit, must congratulate Jane in person on being two, and see Rollie and Judy and the new goat kids, and Anne and David across the road, and of course Avery must be reunited with her stable friends and her beloved Ladybug, for a nice one-off ride on Tuesday. As soon as they found out we were coming (guess how? I madly emailed everyone instantly), the barn mothers organised a dinner out at a reportedly fabulous Italian place: one table for the parents, and one for the girls. I can’t wait. And some shopping, too, probably, since the exchange rate is simply horrific right now and we cannot buy anything here. It should be a great week, cold and frosty with our fires well-stoked and old friends nearby.
Then, believe it or not, we’re planning a possible trip to Morocco for our friend Vincent’s birthday, in April. That sound awfully exotic for me, but why not? I think it’s during Avery’s Easter break (do these schools do nothing but break up? it often feels that way). It certainly would be, as John points out, the way to do Morocco, since Vincent’s father was a diplomat there in the 1970s, and we could find out a lot more with him than we ever would on our own. Something to think about!
But in the meantime, closer to home, let me give you a recipe for a truly comforting dish in case you have a cold night and three hungry little girls in your house. Or even two. Or just yourself. In fact, it’s completely flexible, as few recipes are, in that you can make a little or a lot. This recipe was especially hard to write down, as I just made it up along pretty classic lines and according to what I had in my pantry, since all I bought fresh was the beef itself. And crucially: it’s not only perfect as leftovers, the entire dish should be eaten ONLY on the second day. Alyssa has long told me this and I didn’t believe her. On the first night, it’s good, but it’s a bit tough, because after all, it’s about the cheapest thing you can buy that’s still part of a cow. On the second night, it’s ambrosial.
Classic Brisket
(this amount serves six)
4 tbsps oil (anything light-flavored)
2 lbs brisket (in London it is called “topside”)
5 cups beef stock
2 soup-size cans tomatoes (either whole or chopped, as you like)
6 carrots, sliced
1 dozen pearl onions, peeled
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup red wine
4 bay leaves
1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves, chopped
several grinds fresh black pepper
salt to taste
In a heavy, large saucepan, heat the oil and put in the beef. Sizzle for two minutes then turn and sizzle on the other side. Add the garlic to the oil on either side of the beef and saute briefly: do not burn!. Pour over the beef stock and tomatoes, and toss the vegetables, wine and seasonings in. Stir and cover tightly. Simmer high for at least 2 hours, lifting the lid occasionally to stir the mixture and turn the beef. When tender, turn the beef onto a cutting board and slice short-wise in slices about 1/3 inch thick. Then replace in the suce, and ideally, cool with the lid off and leave over night, tightly covered once cool. You can, of course, eat it right away, but it’s better having rested overnight. Serve the next evening, with noodles, rice or mashed potatoes, and a nice coleslaw of my own design:
Red Cabbage and Fennel Slaw with Tarragon Dressing
(make however much you like!)
red cabbage and fennel bulbs, in equal proportion, sliced thin
red onion, sliced thin
bottled Russian dressing
fresh tarragon leaves, chopped
fresh-squeezed lemon juice
salt and pepper
Combine all dressing ingredients thoroughly and toss with cabbage and fennel. The crunch and spice is perfect with brisket. Heaven.
Thinking about two years ago today, getting a call in our New York apartment, a snowy day, just at wakeup time, and it was Uncle Joel, telling us our niece had been born: Miss Jane Grove, no middle name as all Frederickson women are. It was but the work of a moment for Avery and me to pack ourselves up, drive up to Cheshire, Connecticut (I don’t think we got lost more than three times) and be in time to hold baby Jane, just eight hours old, and see Jill, looking radiant and beautiful, and Joel already behaving like the authoritative and loving dad he is. How tiny she was, just stretching out the length of my thigh as I sat down, and how adoring her cousin Avery was, and is. We miss you and love you: see you in just a week!
It was one of those afternoons and evenings that make me realise how spoilt we all are: a warm home to come to, the three of us to pitch in and help each other out, and nothing real to complain about, just a general feeling of malaise this particular Thursday evening. What I’ve come to recognize as the “Thursday evening syndrome.” Everyone is still surrounded by the responsibilities and pressures of the week, but there’s one more crucial day to get through before we can collapse. We moved it up a day last night and all just sort of collapsed last evening.
I had an excellent comedy class and walked from Covent Garden to the park to see if Avery was riding in the ring where I could see her, or around the Mile where I couldn’t. The sky was just turning dusky blue with airplane trails crisscrossing, and as I put one foot in front of the other, I could feel something shutting down. I can conclude only that I got a stomach bug in my lunch on the way to class. It was a chore to get to the ring, and there they were riding with all their might, Bill giving Avery all sorts of trouble and as a result she was being separated from the group and made to work madly on some skill that wasn’t going well. By the end of the lesson, and all the horses and riders were trooping across the Bayswater Road, she looked like she’d been pulled through the eye of a needle. I listened to the clip-clop of the ponies’ shoes in the mews on the way to the stable and it sounded melancholy! Don’t know why.
We met up with Becky and she kindly gave us a ride home, and for a moment I wanted to be one of Becky’s children, go home with her and be taken care of. Alas, I checked with myself and sure enough, I was still the mother, and wife, so we came in to darkness, because John was out. “I have loads of homework to do, Mummy, so I’ll get started right away,” Avery promised, only we discovered that her backpack was in the car, with John. Minor panic. “Let’s just switch around bathtime with homework time,” I suggested, but “No, when will we have dinner? I can’t get my homework wet, you know, and…” And of course we had been planning to run get a pizza and try La Caricatura again, but the thought of leaving the house, shivering to the restaurant and waiting politely for things to happen on someone else’s schedule seemed the bridge too far. “We’ll get pizza to bring home,” I decided, but suddenly my stomach was not cooperating. Got Avery into her bath and lay down with a hot water bottle, and then John appeared saying he didn’t feel particularly well either, and did I think he had a fever?
John decided that he needed to think about his work party the night before, and admit that maybe everything isn’t all cheery all the time. I don’t think it’s a good idea to give the impression to a child that coping and being cheerful has to be a 24-hour-a-day, seven days a week attitude. Every once in awhile you can say, “That sucked,” and move on. He was so brave, I thought, to go to the party, and it’s all right to admit it. Plus he’s spent all week preparing numbers to make an offer on a house, and then he did, and the estate agent has not responded, which totally freaks him out. “I can’t tell if it would be good news if they accepted the offer, or the most scary thing I’ve ever done in my life,” he admitted.
And Avery, I don’t know how she does it. Day after day of such strenuous school work, and play auditions, and violin lessons, and struggles with the English teacher and her impossible standards,and Latin to memorize, only to spend after-school time in the cold fighting with a two-ton animal, and then more work at home. I keep thinking she’ll crack, and lie down on the floor with her feet kicking. But she doesn’t.
So bath, homework, forgettable pizza. Why do I think it’s a crime to skip dinner, even if I don’t feel well, AND I didn’t cook it? No idea. We tucked Avery up with multiple hot water bottles, and all sort of just… opted out. I decided a good slug of Alka-Seltzer couldn’t hurt, and we settled down to “The Daily Show With Jon Stewart,” and his guest was the chief astrophysicist at the Rose Science Center, at the Natural History Museum in New York! Who happened to be a dad from good old PS 234, Neil de Grasse Tyson. I remember that his daughter in Avery’s class used to say, “My dad knows about stars.”
A truly larger than life figure, immensely knowledgeable, totally full of himself, with a never-exhausted desire to explain it all, to everyone. I remember one school potluck dinner at our apartment where Neil ended up with a pillow from my bedroom to explain something, and he himself standing on the kitchen counter, and using his waistcoat embroidered with stars and planets to illustrated yet another point. “We astrophysicists tell it like it is,” he would boast. “Spots on the sun? We call them ‘sunspots.’ A big hole that’s utterly, endlessly black? ‘Black hole.’” He has a new book out, that would be incredibly depressing if it weren’t so incomprehensibly true. It was such fun to watch and listen, and remember back when the girls were so little, kindergarten, in another city, another school, another life.
I’ll try to get a photograph this weekend of Avery’s new haircut: nothing drastic, just a good trim. Then it’s a school birthday party, and a concert Sunday. We’re on the mend.
Isn’t this an incredibly evocative photograph of an ordinary red bell pepper? I didn’t take it, so I can wax lyrical about the quality. I ended up spending quite a bit of time browsing through the photographer’s website, and you should give it a try too. Plus to a non-speaker of the language, there’s something very amusing about people’s comments in Swedish!
Last night I was so not in the mood to cook dinner: tired for no good reason, John was out at a business dinner (don’t get too excited: it was the goodbye dinner for his former boss, whose retirement was meant to give John the job that The Other Guy got which resulted in the latest installment of Serial Job Quitting). Plus after a nice snack at Patisserie Valerie with Becky and Anna, Avery decided she could not live with the current homework organiser file in her backpack, so we braved the crowds, the overwhelming perfume, and general off-putting commercialism that is Selfridges, perusing their stationery department. Not my favorite way to spend the afternoon. So I had visions of taking Avery to some local pizza joint and relaxing. But bless her heart, she said, “Could you make that spinach and red pepper pasta I like so much?” and when I hesitated she wailed, “You should be glad I love your cooking! And it’s a child, asking for spinach!” I relented. And it is so extremely delicious, plus perfectly good for you too. A bit of labor in chopping, but think of it as your moment of zen.
Farfalle with Spinach and Roasted Red Pepper
(serves four)
1 pound farfalle (I prefer De Cecco)
3 tbsps olive oil
3 large red bell peppers
1/2 pound baby spinach leaves, washed
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 red onion, finely chopped
1 handful flat parsley, chopped
1 1/2 tbsps Italian seasoning
2 soup-size cans peeled plum tomatoes, drained and quartered
sprinkling chilli flakes
1 tsp salt
grated pecorino or parmesan cheese
Put water on to boil for pasta and preheat your oven to broil. Line a cookie sheet with aluminium foil (for easy cleanup) and cut your pepper down the sides in three slices, taking care to discard seeds. Press the slices as flat as they can get, skin side up, onto the cookie sheet and place under broiler. While you keep an eye on them as they roast, start chopping the garlic and onion and throw them in a skillet or wok, with the olive oil; toss in the Italian seasoning. It can all wait in the cold skillet while you get the spinach and parsley chopped. The cut you want with your spinach is called a “chiffonade,” which in French means literally “made into a rag,” and you get it by piling the leaves (stems removed) on top of each other and slicing them into ribbons. This is an extremely satisfying job for your basic OCD person, or a slightly bipolar person who is having a down day. I speak as an authority on both these diagnoses.
When the peppers’ skins are nicely wrinkled and slightly blackened, take them off the sheet with tongs and place either in a brown paper bag, or on a paper towel that is large enough to wrap around them. Make the little package as airtight as you can. After a minute or so, unwrap and you should be able to peel the skins off the peppers and discard them. Then slice the peppers into bite-size pieces and put aside with the tomatoes. I know I am, if not alone, unusual in disliking commercially-roasted red peppers. It’s because they are preserved generally in oil or vinegar, and the oil makes them slimy to my mind, and I don’t do slimy. At all. And the vinegar adds quite an unnecessary bite to them. I suppose I could rinse them. But why? It’s easy to roast peppers, and if I had a gas flame I could hold them in tongs and turn them around until done, also a nice zen task. But if you like slimy, hats off to you and this dish is a bit easier.
Once your peppers and spinach and parsley are chopped, put your pasta in the boiling water and you’ve got 11 minutes to make your sauce. Turn on the heat under the onion and garlic and saute until soft, then add the tomatoes and give it a stir. Add the salt and chillis and check your pasta. When it is just nearly tender, throw your spinach and parsley into the sauce and stir through. Pour your pasta through a colander in the sink and then, without giving it the shake you normally would, throw it in the skillet with the sauce. This leaves a little bit of cooking water to moisten the sauce. Serve with the grated cheese, lots of it. Last night we analysed why the dish needs so much cheese, and came to the conclusion that it is made up of very simple flavors, and no fat to speak of, so the cheese adds depth.
I cannot explain it, but my child adores this dish. She spears each little bowtie and then scoops all the vegetable bits off the plate with relish. We both agree that it isn’t quite as pretty as you would think, when you picture red and green, and if anyone has suggestions on how it could be made prettier, I’d welcome them.
It’s one of those days in London where the sky is hanging low and heavy, and the weather people say dreary things like, “The day will progress with occasional rainshowers, patches of grey, and perhaps the odd bright spell, but with increasing cloud throughout the afternoon.” A typical London day, in fact, which could use a good dose of comedy class to wake it up…