sub­lime Zurich

-- March 31st, 2015 --
grossmunster sign

What a funny week it’s been!  A sort of glimpse into the future when Avery’s not liv­ing here any­more, in fact.  I’ll explain.

We’ve been to Zurich, just the two of us, John and I, for a whirl­wind, exhaust­ing, excit­ing, expen­sive, deli­cious two days and two nights.  What a thrill just to hop on a plane, and 90 min­utes later land in Switzer­land, a night flight, so that our walk to the hotel from the air­port was a glo­ri­ous tour of the dark­ened, but glit­tery, great city.

zurich night I can’t remem­ber the last time I was in a proper hotel — a des­per­ately awful motel at JFK the night before a flight does not count!  This one, the Hotel Helmhaus in the very cen­tre of the city, was quite, quite per­fect, with gor­geous white sheets and a choco­lately soft throw, a gor­geous bath­room and fan­tas­ti­cally help­ful staff.  A total lux­ury, a birth­day gift from my mother.  What an escape.

In the morn­ing, we headed out to explore our neigh­bor­hood, dom­i­nated by the mas­sive Gross­mun­ster church.


The doors are dec­o­rated in a kind of 20th cen­tury ref­er­ence to the Baroque doors by Ghib­erti in Flo­rence, these dis­tinc­tively child­like depic­tions by the great Otto Munch.

munch doors

Sim­ply astonishing.

munch doors2

And the views from the top of the tower?  (We puffed.)  Sim­ply glorious.

zurich view2

John looked so happy, sit­ting by a lit­tle inte­rior win­dow, catch­ing his breath.

john profile

Then we mean­dered over to the intensely beau­ti­ful Frau­mun­ster Church, home to a col­lec­tion of the most sub­lime stained glass win­dows by Marc Cha­gall.  How I wish I could have taken pic­tures of these glow­ing, lively, cel­e­bra­tory win­dows, but such is not allowed.  You must look online at how stun­ning they are, impos­si­bly col­or­ful and happy, despite the obvi­ously com­plex mes­sages within.

chagall windowFrom these churches we wan­dered through the streets of Zurich, as quaint as a doll­house, around every cor­ner a dec­o­rated wall, a sign, a foun­tain.  Here lived Goethe.

goethe house

Noth­ing was ordi­nary. fountain1 What a joy to see some­thing new. flower display A gur­gle of water, but extra­or­di­nary. fountain2 And every­where mes­sages that I could not read.  How frus­trat­ing to be such a fail­ure at Ger­man, as it happens. gothic...			<div class=No Comments | Read More