(serves 10 at least)
1 2-kilogram piece of brisket, with fat but no sinew or membrane
100 grams Demerara sugar
15 grams saltpetre
125 rock or sea salt
30 grams black peppercorns
15 grams allspice
15 grams juniper berries
Rub the beef with the sugar, top and bottom, cover with clingfilm and refrigerate overnight. The next day, grind the spices coarsely in a mortar and pestle or in a food processor and combine with the salt and saltpetre. Rub this mixture vigorously into the meat, cover again with film and refrigerate for 10 days, turning the meat from time to time and ensuring it is evenly exposed to the curing mixture.
After 10 days, remove the meat from its brine and rinse off any adhering spices. Place the meat in a tight-fitting casserole with two inches of water. Cover with greaseproof paper and the lid of the casserole. Place in a moderate oven 150C for three hours so that it gently steams and braises.
Remove the meat from the oven and leave to cool in the casserole. Once cool, remove to a dish and place a weighted plate –four tins of tomatoes is the usual prescription — on top. Refrigerate overnight. The next day, serve the meat cold, in thin slices.
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Luxury Macaroni and Cheese
(serves about 8)
1 1/2 lb macaroni, or conchiglie, cooked and drained
3 tbsps butter
2 tbsps flour
1 liter whole milk
skim milk to thin if sauce is too thick
as many cheeses as you have available: Wensleydale, Red Leicester, Double Gloucester, sharp Cheddar, Emmenthal: total 1 1/2 lb, grated
1/2 cup cream cheese: Dairylea or Philadelphia or Laughing Cow
dash fresh-ground nutmeg
tiny dash cayenne pepper
sea salt and black pepper to taste
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs
3 tbsps melted butter
Have the cooked pasta available, spread into a large buttered dish, large enough to easily accommodate all the pasta and sauce.
Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan and add the flour, cooking together for a bubbling minute or so. Whisk in the whole milk, whisking constantly and scraping the bottom to get all the floury butter incorporated. Cook this white sauce until thickened. If you feel it is too thick, add a bit of skim milk, whisking all the while.
Add all the cheeses together, whisking as they melt. Season with the nutmeg, cayenne, salt and pepper.
When the sauce is thoroughly melted and creamy, pour it over…
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