Shh.… can you hear it?
Wasn’t there a poet that said “unheard melodies are sweetest”? That’s what I’m hearing today, out on my terrace, dappled in mid-afternoon sunshine, a goldfinch on the distant birdfeeder, the hydrangea finally in bloom. Unheard melodies. It’s perfectly quiet. For once, this entire summer, there is nothing happening.
Quiet.
To be sure, this morning the air rang with the sound of Avery, Kate and neighbor Taylor’s laughing as they jumped on the trampoline (someone has taught Kate to say “boing” but no one is owning up to it). And even earlier in the day you could have heard John and me apologizing for bad tennis shots, at the court next to the pool. But right now… silence.
Actually, mostly what you hear at the tennis court are the unceasing accusations of “Leo, that was so LONG,” and “You idiot, it’s not 30/30, it’s 40/40, what are you, blind?” from the foursome we have come to call The Grumpy Old Men. Four men in their 80s, in varying stages of decrepitude, but all sharing an unerring instinct for the unpleasant comment, hurled at one another as the game progresses. One day we actually booked the shady court, because I had had my fill of playing in the blazing sun, and would you believe these guys refused to move over! “We’ll give you a couple of bucks to go away,” one of them jeered. In between games they trade slightly off-color stories about their exploits off-court, many of them punctuated with references to Viagra. Honestly, you have to hand it to them, infirm as they are, still in their tennis whites batting the ball back and forth. But get off the shady court, gentlemen!
The quiet of my afternoon has been interrupted by my intrepid husband, hauling firewood from across the road to our woodshed in the back of his trusty Land Rover, circa 1967.
He is puffing and sweating in the sun, but I can assure you that he’ll be full of pride in his achievement later, and full of plans for our Christmas holiday here, with plenty of firewood.
It’s the Twelve Days of Summer, that’s all we have left. Who would have guessed on that day in early July that the summer would speed by so quickly? Well, I would have, because I know from summers back that that’s how it goes. You pack up in London, little believing that the holiday has really arrived, and you float across the wide Atlantic, slowly leaving behind the school year cares of homework, wretched piano teachers, steamy days in Lost Property, the burglar alarm that WILL NOT stop turning itself on every time a cat goes by… and you arrive at Red Gate Farm.
For about a week you revel in the peace, and then the craziness begins. Endless friends and family troop in and out, bringing dishes of food, numberless candles are lit and burn down as conversations spin out around the table. Trooping into the hot city for plays, shopping trips, lunches, dinners, family get-togethers… and days at the stable, watching the teenager go round and round, me trying not to sneeze…
And life picks up pace. Every summer. Trips to the ice cream shop up the road, for that one fried-food lunch at Denmo’s that leaves us remembering why I learned to fry shrimp, afternoons see-sawing with Kate, explorations of the barn to discover once and for all WHERE is the hardware for our shutters? And visits to Tricia’s farm, where I come away with a new friend and an apronful of treasures…
Until we’re left at the end thinking, “Where did the time go?” So I’m glad to have one afternoon, just one Thursday afternoon, with nothing to do but sit here and appreciate the horses whinnying in the back meadow…
Actually, our quiet day today will be enlivened by a visit to the local farmer’s market, one of my favorite places to be on any given summer Thursday. Will the peach farmer be as drop-dead gorgeous as usual, or will he have sent his dad along instead? We can hope.
So life this past week has been frantic, even for me. The last time to breathe was Saturday, when after a whole day of cooking for the following day’s party, we piled in the car and headed over to New Milford to The Archive, a unique collection of photographs of New York City, advertisements for long-gone health products, Campbell’s cream of mushroom soup, Real Silk hosiery and Lana Turner. All the images were collected by Hugh A. Dunne, and the enterprise is now run by his delightful daughter Susie and her husband Jeff, in a Victorian house on a sunny street. So far they’ve been able to organize only a bit of his half-million-object collection, so we couldn’t find anything about Tribeca. Next time.
And Sunday brought the party of the century. Of two centuries, actually, since it was a gathering to celebrate the 200th birthday of the house! I know, in England that’s nothing to write home about, but here in NEW England, we get excited about two hundred years. To think of the births and deaths, illness and tragedy, weddings and wars this house has seen. And my mother’s birthday, substantially less than 200 of them, fell on the same weekend, so the party we normally have for her kind of… exploded! Added to the general family mayhem were dignitaries from the Southbury Land trust, of which constellation of acres our property is a shining star. And our friends Olimpia and Tony, all the way from the Catskills!
And from the farthest away, my darling friend Becky and her two girls, Avery’s best friend Anna and her sister Ellie, all the way from Charlotte! They made a really good decorating committee.
And of course Jill and her girls… Jane got the award for having the most fun with her feet. The socks… didn’t survive.
The day was one of those that even as it’s happening, stands out as one of the best. Right now I close my eyes and see the day unfold, watching everyone fall into place in the happiest spot possible. Rollie rolled up early in his pickup to unload the long tables that would later hold untold amounts of delicious food… he and I manhandled stuff out quick as lightning, unfolding chairs, shaking out cushions. What would we do without Rollie and Judy? Because along with the tables and chairs came Judy’s collection of plates in every size you can imagine, and tablecloths, and broccoli salad with bacon!
And then up came Becky’s rental car and out spilled the girls, miles taller than when I saw them last a year and a half ago, suddenly young ladies, as is my own, so why am I surprised? And Becky herself, she of the warmest, lingering hugs, her serene face, her bubbling laugh, her Southernisms. “What do y’all want me to do to help?” And instantly we were back in our old London mode of pitching in together, holding down tablecloths in the breeze, taping them down, pouring ice into buckets, arranging Squirt and Diet Pepsi and pink lemonade and beers.
And Shelley, all the way from New York state, behind the scenes taking the most delicious photos… how did she become so talented! It was Shelley who captured Jane’s feet… priceless.
Olimpia and Tony brought her usual ambrosial array of Italian delicacies to unpack, ooh and ahh over, taste “just to make sure they’re OK…” Meatballs in a tomato sauce redolent of fresh basil, beef ribs with the meat falling off the bone, plump sausages and fresh, warm rolls and a garlicky caponata with capers and black olives. Olimpia! Will you marry me?
And the party unfolded. There were, in addition to Olimpia’s offerings, my own sticky chicken wings in a sauce of dark molasses, beer and garlic, red cabbage slaw with a sesame oil and ginger dressing, plus blue poppy seeds… an orzo salad with my homemade pesto and chopped Moroccan olives, and Tricia brought a lovely colorful salad of her own beans and edible calendula flowers!
There were practically hundreds of devilled eggs because they are the favorite of the birthday girl, my mother. Why don’t I make them more often?
Devilled Eggs
(allow a whole egg per person, so this serves 24)
2 dozen very fresh eggs (makes easier peeling when they’re fresh)
about 1/2 cup mayonnaise
2 tbsps dijon mustard
1 tsp mild curry powder, or kefta seasoning
fresh ground pepper and sea salt to taste
Place eggs in a heavy-bottomed saucepan and cover with water, plus an inch over that. Bring to a boil, then turn off heat, cover pan and leave for 15 minutes. Drain and place in a cool bowl, add a handful or two of ice cubes and cover with cold water. Leave until cool, then peel and cut eggs in half lengthwise.
Remove yolks to a large bowl and add enough mayonnaise for your taste. My daughter likes very little; I can never get enough mayonnaise on anything! Season with curry powder and salt and pepper, then spoon the mixture into each egg half. Arrange on a platter and dust with paprika, just, as the great food/mystery writer Virginia Rich says, “for pretty.” Done.
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I wish I had stopped to take photographs of all the food, like a good blogger should, but to be honest, for once I was actually AT my party, actually IN my life! And therefore, some moments went unphotographed. But here’s a sense of the beauty of the table.
It was a wonderful, lively, friendly party, with a whole other party going on in the kitchen as cleanup started… Olimpia, Becky and Jill ended up in a sort of sorority of suds, trading life stories, organizing and bringing order to chaos as only three superwomen could do.
Anne made a speech! As eloquently as only Anne could do, chronicling the “lucky days” of our house and its protected property, ending with the day we decided to buy it. How lucky WE have been in our neighbors, who started out as lovely people to wave to over a white picket fence, and have grown into the best of friends.
And then there was the cake. Chocolate mousse, with some sort of Frangelico or other alcohol-y essence, and “Red Gate Farm 1810–2010″ and “Happy Birthday, Mona” on it. Mona? My mother explained to the party at large. “My name is really Nonna, Italian for grandmother, but somehow in the first year of this traditional August party, the baker listened to “Happy Birthday, Nonna,” and heard ‘Happy Birthday, Mona.’ Now everyone, especially Jane, insists on ‘Mona.’”
What a wonderful day… and just as everyone began to drift away, large raindrops fell onto the enormous maple leaves overhead, shielding us as that tree has shielded this terrace since the last owner’s husband built it himself of rocks from the property. Finally, the party was over, for another year.
But Becky’s family visit had just begun! She is the most wonderful houseguest: casually picking up dishes to dry, laundry to fold, much as Rosemary does, so having the two of them together meant I hardly had to lift a finger! And the chats… oh, the luxury of having her HERE, where I could give her a hug if I wanted to, where we could sit for hours and just “visit,” as she says in her Southern way. Not the sort of frantic visiting you do on a phone from Charlotte to London, where you know you have to hang up in fifteen minutes, and you’re left with a whole list of things you forgot to say.
No, this is the sort of over-the-kitchen-table visiting that took me straight back to her London kitchen, where there were always at least four and usually more little girls in school uniforms running around, shrieking, looking for snacks, sitting on our laps. Becky and her family represent for me a whole part of my life, a simpler one when our children were always with us, and little, full of Sports Days and school concerts and playdates. When did playdates disappear? Somewhere after Becky moved away, taking a certain part of life with her.
But for four days, we got it back. Magic.
Not the least of which were…
(serves at least 8, but more with other side dishes on offer)
3 lbs/1 ½ kilos potatoes (Maris Piper in England is a good choice, or a Yukon Gold in the US)
3 round shallots or 1 banana shallot, minced
2 cups/ 474 ml grated or shredded Cheddar or Double Gloucester cheese
1 tsp garlic powder
sea salt and pepper
3 cups/1 pint/474 ml single cream or Half and Half
Boil potatoes until easily pierced with a fork, then peel when cool. Grate them on a coarse grater and set aside.
Lighly oil or nonstick spray a deep glass or pottery casserole dish, perhaps 9 inches in diameter and 5 inches or so high (mine is round, which is an appealing shape). Scatter a layer of grated potatoes on the bottom, then cover with a layer of cheese, a sprinkling of shallot, a sprinkle of garlic powder, and season well. Repeat layering until you have run out of ingredients, ending with cheese. Then pour the cream over the casserole.
Bake at 180C, 350F until bubbly and the cheese begins to brown, about 45 minutes, depending on the depth of the casserole.
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Of all the dishes that have come out of my kitchen all summer, this one was a first in many ways: all the children ate it, everyone had second helpings, and it was ALL gone, no leftovers! Becky always says cruelly, “This is even better second day,” knowing in her heart of hearts that there is NEVER a second day.
And big news: while the girls were all here, our friend Alice decided to adopt Jessamy! She is the fluffiest of all three kittens, with quite a beautiful personality. And to think she’ll now be in our lives forever, just a visit to Manhattan away. And there are inklings that there may be some babysitting duties at Christmas to look forward to…
Then we were off to one last family lunch at my sister’s house (lovely flank steak, Joel, and I cooked my telly contest soup!), and then goodbye to my mother, father and brother until Christmas. It was a wrench to pack them up into my sister’s car and wave them off to the airport. But glass half full: it was unforgettable to have them here.
And to make us feel better, we packed up the girls and headed to Quassy! Quassy holds a special place in my heart, because I can’t decide if I love it, or hate it. A little of each, I think. It’s old fashioned, it’s hot, the air smells nauseatingly of cotton candy and fried dough (I know, don’t ask), the rides are almost all too scary for me, but it’s a bit of our summer tradition. So I go.
This summer Avery and John actually went on the Mad Mouse, a hideously rickety roller coaster, and guess what? They’re demolishing it later in the summer (like, tomorrow probably) and building a new one! Who would ride a roller coaster on its LAST LEGS, advertised as such? My daughter and husband. Yikes.
Then home for pizza and a haircolor spa led by Becky, with much hilarity and chagrin from our girls as they settled into bed only to find that the air mattress had sprung a leak! A mad dash to bring up all the cushions from sofas… a crazy end to a crazy visit.
And so they departed. We were left with a quiet house, my head and heart bursting full of memories that I will only really believe in on some cold, gray, rainy day in London. Then, I’ll sit back and watch the droplets stream down my English windows, and conjure up a house full of birthday guests and the smell of L’Oreal, the taste of birthday cake and the feeling of my mother’s arms around me in a hug, and the heft of Molly on my hip, and it will be summer again.
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Ok — you made me cry. Enough said. Beautiful!
August 20th, 2010 at 1:16 amAnn, you are too sweet. Thank you.
August 20th, 2010 at 2:20 amTruly, this is joy.
August 20th, 2010 at 3:16 amAh, Shelley… you know it even as well as I do… this place! This summer… these people.
August 20th, 2010 at 4:23 amI know just what you mean about knowing that a day is one of the best, even as it unfolds. And I so admire your ability to temper the sadness that accompanies the joy by focusing on the creation of memories. Thank you for sharing them with us!
August 20th, 2010 at 11:35 amI’m so glad you enjoyed reading my memories… I want to hear about “American Girl”! And other New York stories.
August 21st, 2010 at 2:01 amBeautifully written as always, I couldn’t stop laughing over the gentlemen in the shady court, hilarious!
August 21st, 2010 at 6:30 amI really enjoyed reading this column. The lazy, hazy days of Summer.
August 21st, 2010 at 10:07 pmJulian and Bonnie, thanks… it really has been a very entertaining summer! And I LOVE the new subscribe option, Julian, thank you!
August 21st, 2010 at 11:03 pmAfter reading through the whole, I can see why you were relishing that lazy golden moment! Our summers, although they don’t include this wonderful Connecticut residence, are always equally crammed with catch-up visits and travel. We always get to the end, and catch our breath, and think: What happened to RESTING? Funnily enough, I write to you on the FIRST day of the summer that we have not guests or a million things to accomplish. Frankly, it is one of the few days that we have even been in the house alone. (Well, Rebecca has a friend over, but I won’t count that.)
The thing about English summers, though, is that they never seem to have that outdoor party/tennis flavor that you get in New England. We had warm days in June, sure, but August has been a wash-out. As I write to you, there is a cold wind blowing and a persistent drizzle beating against the windows. Oh, I do think you enjoy the best of both worlds … although it must be a terrible wrench to leave your Red Gate Farm every year.
A few notes about food: We make that potato casserole, but my mother has always used frozen hashbrowns (which you can’t get in England) instead of fresh potatoes. I will definitely try out this version. I like to serve it during the holidays, with a fat slice of ham.
Also, my mother has always told me to NOT fresh eggs as they are harder to peel. ???
August 25th, 2010 at 12:20 pmYep, Bee, it’s that American hot summer/sticky days/blue sky feeling that we love. But tonight we’re contemplating the end, and as you say, it’s the wrench. Stomach clenching, a bit, tonight. And you know what? Julia Child said the same your mother says about hard-boiled eggs being easier NOT fresh, but I cannot say I agree, plus something in me recoils at the thought of deliberately using not fresh eggs…! I’m sure it doesn’t really matter. Any hard-boiled egg is better than none, like movie popcorn, and some other things better not specified on a family blog!
August 30th, 2010 at 1:35 am