(serves four)
1 lb potatoes, in their jackets, scrubbed
1 large white onion
4 ounces goose fat
sea salt to taste
Boil the potatoes until just cooked and set aside to cool slightly. Then slice the onion very thin and saute it in half the goose fat, till crispy and brown. Set aside in a little dish, and DO NOT clean the skillet. Cube the potatoes into nice shapes (Avery did turn up her presentation-obsessed nose at my imprecise angles) and saute in the other half of the goose fat, in the onion skillet, turning frequently to brown on all sides as much as possible. Throw in the onions and toss till mixed. HEAVEN.
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(serves four)
25 grams dried porcini mushrooms
3/4 lb spaghetti
1 tbsp unsalted (important) butter
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup single cream
2 egg yolks
10 slices jambon iberico
fresh ground black pepper to taste
a few gratings lemon zest
grated pecorino or parmesan to garnish
This dish is roughly inspired by a similarly creamy and decadent one in the brilliant Giuliano Hazan’s Classic Pasta, where he combines prosciutto and asparagus. I love Hazan’s book partly for its no-nonsense advice and obvious channeling of his mother’s genius, but also for the presentation which has a Dorling-Kindersley appeal: ingredients lined up with Mondrian precision.
Now, two things about ingredients. I specify jambon iberico only because I bought some yesterday. You may easily use parma ham or prosciutto. Second, you must set the mushrooms aside in boiling water to cover them, for at least 20 minutes to rehydrate them. Remember this at the outset, because that will take longer than the sauce prep or the boiling water for your pasta.
So, set the mushrooms aside. Poke at them now and then to make sure they are all absorbing the water. …
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