best ever Fri­day night curry

Let’s go for a cur­ry,” is a very typ­i­cal thing for a British per­son to say.  It is short-hand for “Let’s have Indi­an food,” “Let’s have some­thing spicy,” but also some­thing deep­er, like “Let’s let our hair down and do some­thing com­plete­ly relax­ing and deli­cious and un-demand­ing.”  The very word is mys­te­ri­ous — does it come from, as some sug­gest, the sim­ple French word “cuire,” which means to cook?  Or does it refer to an Indi­an word, “kari,” which means a spicy sauce?

Cur­ry, of course, also con­jured up roman­tic (or exploitive, depend­ing on your per­spec­tive) images of British-occu­pied India, with tents in sand, white-dressed wait­ers, exot­ic spices fill­ing the air.

Does the word “cur­ry” refer to the fla­vor­ing paste, or to the col­lec­tion of veg­eta­bles and meat that swim in it?  Either, or both.  Cur­ry is essen­tial mys­tery of British life.

Cur­ry can be, in bor­ing restau­rants, a very watered-down, unex­cit­ing culi­nary expe­ri­ence where the intense fla­vors have been mut­ed to appeal to the low­est com­mon denom­i­na­tor.  Or it can be, in your own home, an intense­ly flavour­some, col­or­ful, creamy, spicy delight.  The per­fect thing, there­fore, on a Fri­day night that caps off a dif­fi­cult week, as ours was last night.

The only spe­cial equip­ment you need — if you are not devot­ed to a mor­tar and pes­tle (I am not) — is a small chop­ping machine or a blender.

The secret to tru­ly ten­der chick­en in this cur­ry is two-fold: slice the chick­en very thin AGAINST the grain of the meat.  Turn the breast this way and that in good light, so you can see the way the meat grows.  Cut it AGAINST the ver­ti­cal lines, turn­ing the meat now and then to make sure you are fol­low­ing the grain all through the breast.  This will make com­plete sense when you begin to slice.

The sec­ond secret for the chick­en is to bring the sauce to a high sim­mer, then drop in the chick­en, then turn the heat VERY low.  You can even turn it off.  Stir fre­quent­ly, bring­ing the sauce to a sim­mer again if you can see the chick­en is still pink.  This is real­ly a poach­ing method.  Cook­ing the chick­en over high heat in this sauce will turn it tough.  Do not let this happen.

Per­fect Fri­day-Night Curry

(serves 6)

for the paste:

6 cloves garlic

1 fat 2‑inch knob gin­ger, peeled and cut in chunks

3 Thai red chilies

2 tbsps Sriracha super-hot chili sauce

zest and juice of 1 lime

1 shal­lot, peeled

1 stalk lemon grass, fine­ly chopped

1 tsp Thai fish sauce

1 tsp sugar

1/2 tsp sea salt

fresh black pepper

1 tsp water

for the curry:

2 tbsps veg­etable or olive oil

2 red bell pep­pers, cut in bite-size pieces

1/2 head cau­li­flower, cut in bite-size florets

1 white onion, cut in eighths

1 zucchini/courgette, cut in bite-size pieces

1/4 cup chick­en stock

1 cup/250 ml coconut cream

1 soup-size can coconut milk

4 chick­en breast fil­lets, com­plete­ly trimmed

steamed bas­mati rice

large hand­ful flat-leaf pars­ley, chopped fine

large hand­ful cilantro/coriander, chopped fine

Place all the ingre­di­ents for the paste in your chop­ping machine or blender and pulse for a long time, scrap­ing down the sides, so that they form a thick, even paste.

In a large, heavy-bot­tomed saucepan, heat the oil till very hot.  Tip in the paste.  Stir vigorously.

Tip in all the veg­eta­bles but the cour­gette and cook over a high heat until the pep­pers begin to col­or slight­ly.  Add the courgette.

Pour in the stock, coconut cream and coconut milk and stir until ful­ly blend­ed.  Bring to a high sim­mer and add the chick­en.  Turn the heat down very low and con­tin­ue to stir, check­ing fre­quent­ly to see if the chick­en has turned opaque and lost its pink­ness.  This is the moment to turn the heat OFF.

Pre­pare your rice.  Here is anoth­er secret for you.  When your rice has ful­ly steamed, turn off the heat and leave it, cov­ered, for about 10 min­utes.  This will pro­duce enough extra steam to loosen the rice from the bot­tom of the pan, and it will come away ful­ly, leav­ing no sticky bits.  Toss the rice with the pars­ley and cilantro and resist the urge to add but­ter.  You don’t need it; the cur­ry is creamy enough.

Enjoy.

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