Christ­mas Eve Oys­ter Stew

(serves 8 generously)

6 tbsps butter
4 tbsps flour
6 cloves gar­lic, minced
6 stalks cel­ery, fine­ly minced
1 white onion, fine­ly minced
8 pints shucked oys­ters with their liquor
1 tbsp cel­ery salt (how­ev­er fan­cy you can go, or not, is fine)
1 quart whole milk
1 pint heavy cream
to taste: more cel­ery salt, Tabas­co, lemon juice, pepper

In a large heavy stock­pot, melt the but­ter, then add flour and cook till frothy but not brown. Add gar­lic, cel­ery and onion and saute until slight­ly soft, then add oys­ters with liquor. Stir over medi­um heat until the edges of the oys­ters curl up (this means they are near­ly cooked). Add cel­ery salt, milk and cream, and heat gen­tly until the broth is hot. Try not to let it boil, but if it does, whisk it thor­ough­ly to pre­vent any cur­dling. Sea­son with more cel­ery salt, Tabas­co, lemon juice and pep­per till it’s just to your taste. I must warn you: a great deal of tast­ing may be nec­es­sary, but try to avoid get­ting a bowl to taste. Lim­it your­self to a tea­spoon at a time. Glo­ri­ous. Even bet­ter if you can make it a day ahead and bury the stock­pot, firm­ly lid­ded, in a snow­drift overnight. Serve with plen­ty of oys­ter crackers.

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